106 NORTHERN CHILE. 



chandelier-like cactus was here replaced by a dif- 

 ferent and much smaller species. During the win- 

 ter months, both in northern Chile and in Peru, a 

 uniform bank of clouds hangs, at no gi-eat height, 

 over the Pacific. From the mountains we had a 

 very striking view of this white and brilliant aerial 

 field, which sent arms up the valleys, leaving isl- 

 ands and promontories in the same manner as the 

 -sea does in the Chonos Archipelago and in Tierra 

 del Fuego. 



We stayed two days at Freyrina. In the valley 

 of Guasco there are four small towns. At the 

 mouth there is the port, a spot entirely desert, and 

 without any water in the immediate neighbour- 

 hood. Five leagues higher up stands Freyrina, a 

 long, straggling village, with decent, whitewashed 

 houses. Again, ten leagues further up, Ballenar 

 is situated ; and above this, Guasco Alto, a horti- 

 cultural village, famous for its dried fruit. On a 

 clear day the view up the valley is very fine ; the 

 straight opening temiinates in the far-distant snowy 

 Cordillera ; on each side an infinity of ci'ossing 

 lines are blended together in a beautiful haze. 

 The foreground is singular, from the number of 

 parallel and step-fomied terraces ; and the included 

 strip of green valley, with its willow bushes, is con- 

 trasted on both hands with the naked hills. That 

 the surrounding country was most baiTen will be 

 readily believed, when it is known that a shower 

 of rain had not fallen during the last thirteen 

 months. The inhabitants heard with the greatest 

 envy of the rain at Coquimbo ; from the appear- 

 ance of the sky they had hopes of equally good 

 fortune, which, a fortnight afterwards, were real- 

 ized. I was at Copiapo at the time ; and there 

 the people, with equal envy, talked of the abun- 

 dant rain at Guasco. After two or three very dry 



