iQurauE. 125 



stretched over the ocean, seldom rises above the 

 wall of rocks on the coast. The aspect of the 

 place was most gloomy ; the little port, with its 

 few vessels, and small group of wretched houses, 

 seemed overwhelmed, and out of all proportion 

 with the rest of the scene. 



The inhabitants live like persons on board a 

 ship : every necessary comes from a distance : 

 water is brought in boats from Pisagua, about 

 forty miles northward, and is sold at the rate of 

 nine reals (4*. 6d.) an eighteen-gallon cask : I 

 bought a wine-bottleful for threepence. In like 

 manner, fii'e-wood, and, of course, every article of 

 food, is imported. Very few animals can be main- 

 tained in such a place : on the ensuing morning I 

 hired with difficulty, at the price of four pounds 

 sterling, two mules and a guide to take me to the 

 nitrate of soda works. These are at present the 

 support of Iquique. This salt was first exported 

 in 1830 : in one year an amount in value of one 

 hundred thousand pounds sterling was sent to 

 France and England. It is principally used as a 

 manure and in the manufacture of nitric acid : 

 owing to its deliquescent property, it will not serve 

 for gunpowder. Formerly there were two exceed- 

 ingly rich silver-mines in this neighbourhood, but 

 their produce is now very small. 



Our ari'ival in the offing caused some little ap- 

 prehension. Peru was in a state of anarchy ; and 

 each party having demanded a contribution, the 

 poor town of Iquique was in tribulation, thinking 

 the evil hour was come. The people had also their 

 domestic troubles ; a short time before, three 

 French cai-penters had broken open, during the 

 same night, the two churches, and stolen all the 

 plate : one of the robbers, however, subsequently 

 confessed, and the plate was recovered. The con- 

 L 2 



