NOVA SCOTIA. 123 



at nine. After the first two miles of the journey were passed 

 we commenced the ascent of the South Mountain, and from 

 that time passed but one solitary house in mid-wilderness. 



The woods were drear and sombre, vast masses of spruce 

 and hemlock, whose monotony was varied only by an occa- 

 sional lake around which fires had run, and from whose 

 swampy bottoms burnt trunks of trees projected stark and 

 stifi". The road was filled with rocks that threatened to dis- 

 locate the wagon and leave us afoot among the bears, which 

 the driver said were " thick " thereabouts. But " nary " bear 

 was seen, or other evidence of game-life. Only when the 

 shades of evening fell, an owl which had been drowsing all 

 day long, shook out his plumage and hooted. Not to be 

 made game of in this fashion, I roused the echoes with my 

 pistol, and the imp of darkness flapped away from a tree near 

 by, and presently settled down again on another, further ofl". 

 Then the dark grew denser and we jogged. It was down- 

 hill now. AVe were over the mountain, and the road im- 

 proved. At Maitland (two houses), where the hght shone, 

 the candle had been snufied for the last time, but we got 

 supper nevertheless — strawbenies and cream, bread and 

 butter, and sweet cakes — and the horse got hay. 



We were up at four o'clock, took breakfast at Caledonia at 

 eight — forty miles made since starting — and at noon reached 

 a fork, of which one branch turned toward Greenfield, on the 

 Port Medway Eiver, and the other to Ponhook Lake, the 

 headquarters of the Micmacs and of all the salmon of Liver- 

 pool Elver. This lake is the southernmost of a magnificent 

 chain of lakes, of which Lake Resign ol is the largest, the 

 latter being twelve miles long by eight wide, and studded 

 with innumerable islands. If the sportsman who has been 

 contented with Adirondack or Wliite Mountain experience, 

 would enjoy a summer vacation which shall eclipse all others 

 in its novelty, variety, and pleasure, let him employ two 

 Indians and a canoe at Ponhook and begin his voyage. He 

 can pass without portages into a dozen lakes and ponds by 



