COLT RAISING 21 



hind legs, and after this education he will find nothing 

 to frighten him in the shafts of a wagon. 



A timid colt will, of course, be more dangerous the 

 first time he is hitched than afterward; whereas a colt 

 inclined to be vicious is a little dazed the first time or 

 two that he is driven, and may surprise you by his good 

 conduct. He will assert himself somewhat later in 

 the game. A colt should never be whipped for refus- 

 ing to move or for balking. Sit still, for hours if 

 necessary, until the colt is willing to start, and after a 

 few experiences of that kind he will go along freely 

 of his own accord. Remember that he dislikes mo- 

 notony even more than you do. Never strike a colt 

 twice with the whip — if one blow does not accom- 

 plish the object, you must change your tactics or you 

 may ruin the colt. A single blow of the whip, indeed, 

 is often enough to spoil a high-bred, high-strung horse. 

 Such an animal will not submit to the bullying and 

 punishment that a coarse-bred horse will endure. In 

 general, a severe bit, that is, a bit that becomes severe 

 if horse or driver pulls on it, such as a four-ring bit, is 

 far better than the whip as a means of punishment. 



Tying up one foreleg is an excellent way of subduing 

 a refractory colt without injuring his temper. 



The difference between ''breaking" and "gentling" 

 Is largely this: suppose that the colt refuses to do what 

 you want him to do, so that there is a contest of wills 

 between you. If you are "breaking" him, you will 

 go at him with whip or bit or a "war-bridle," or some 

 such device, and force him to do your will. You will 

 probably succeed, but you will, in some degree at least, 



