IRRIGATION FOR THEJ ORCHARD. 28 1 



Plow and subsoil repeatedly, so as to thoroughly 

 pulverize to a depth of twelve to eighteen inches. 

 When planting upon lawns or grass-plots remove the 

 sod for a diameter of four or five feet, and keep this 

 space well worked and free from weeds. Dig the hole 

 deeper and larger than is necessary to admit all the 

 roots in their natural position, keeping the surface and 

 subsoil separate. Cut off the broken and bruised roots 

 and shorten the tops to half a dozen good buds, except 

 for fall planting, when it is better to defer top-pruning 

 until the following spring. If not prepared to plant 

 when the stock arrives, heel in by digging a trench 

 deep enough to admit all the roots, and set the trees 

 therein as thick as they can stand, carefully packing 

 the earth about the roots and taking up when required. 

 Never leave the roots exposed to the sun and air, and 

 puddle before planting. Fill up the hole with surface 

 soil, so that the tree, after the earth is settled, will 

 stand about as it did when in the nursery; but dwarf 

 pears should be planted deep enough to cover the 

 quince stock, upon which they are budded, two or three 

 inches. Work the soil thoroughly among the roots, 

 and when well covered tamp firmly. Set the trees as 

 firmly as a post, but leave the surface filling light and 

 loose. No staking will be required except with very 

 tall trees. Never let manure come in contact with the 

 roots. As soon as planted water thoroughly. 



Apple trees can be planted twenty-eight or thirty 

 feet each way, or twenty-four by thirty-six feet, and a 

 pear, cherry, plum, or peach planted between the apple 

 trees in the thirty-six foot space. Raspberries, goose- 

 berries, and currants can be planted in the rows be- 



