The Labrador. 41 



Icebergs may be met with on the Labrador coast, in great 

 numbers, almost any day, except in the winter season. At times we 

 counted as many as twenty or thirty from the Neptune's quarter- 

 deck. They were of various sizes, and of many shapes, and, reflect 

 ing the strong light of the sun, pi*esented a most picturesque scene. 

 An iceberg looks like a small mountain of gypsum, or, if you please, 

 a well formed elevation of white marble ; or, better still, it looks like 

 just what it is, a huge pile of solid ice. 



But one steaming along the Labrador will not only be enter- 

 tained by icebergs, and the strange wild character of the bold, rocky 

 coast, but by the wind-storms as well. If you have never been 

 in a Labrador wind-storm, then you have never been there at all. 

 It is always blowing furiously. Clearing Belle Isle, we steamed out 

 into the North Atlantic. The wind — we knew it would — freshened 

 into a strong gale, and the western sky became a picture of wild- 

 ness. Clouds were being driven rapidly with the upper currents, 

 and, as they parted or passed over the face of the setting sun, and 

 mingled their dark shadows with his dazzling rays, the deep shades 

 and bright colours with which the horizon was painted rendered 

 the scene intensely thrilling. The Neptune was rapidly carrying 

 us from the sight of land, upon which we feasted our vision all day, 

 and steaming out upon the increasing swells of the angry sea. It 

 was plain to the captain, and indeed to all on board, that the night 

 would be exceedingly rough ; but that was not all, the furious gale 

 was directly ahead, so that but little progress could be made. 



Lieutenant Gordon and Captain Sopp held a hurried conversa- 

 tion in the chart house on the advisability of putting into a harbour 

 until the wind should subside. I think the captain was in favour 

 of adopting such a precaution, not so much to avoid danger, as 

 none was apprehended, but to save coals, as steaming against the 

 strong wind could avail but little. However, Lieutenant Gordon, 

 using his usual phrase, thought she would " slip along," and urged 

 that course, which was adopted. 



The wind increased in strength. The seas rolled higher and 

 higher, and the Neptune began to roll and pitch. Most of our men 

 were driven below, and, turning in, sea-sick and disheartened, did 



