RECENT IMPRESSIONS OF SPAIN 31 



Latin and ends in Greek. The Creed, which is usually called 

 the Bini (couplets), is said immediately after the consecra- 

 tion, in couplets, each one divided off from the other, and im- 

 mediately after, the Our Father is sung by the priest, who 

 pauses at each petition while the choir responds Amen. For 

 those who are learned in liturgies, I may add that the Moza- 

 rabic rite is the only western rite which has an epiclesis which 

 is said as the post-pridie on the feast of Corpus Christi. In 

 the Mozarabic Mass they read the Prophecy, the Epistle, and 

 the Gospel, and have besides a Preface or Inlatio for nearly 

 every feast day and Sunday in the year. Father Abad y Perez 

 has compiled an excellent little Mozarabic Mass-book, contain- 

 ing the whole Mass in Latin and Spanish called "Devocionario 

 Muzarabe," which is sold for a very modest sum at all the 

 Toledo book shops. 



In addition to the cathedral and its old-fashioned cloisters 

 with quaint decaying frescoes, the church of Santo Tome is 

 well worth a visit, if it be only to see the pictures of El Greco. 

 Besides there are two old Jewish synagogues, afterwards 

 turned into churches : Santa Maria la Blanca and La Sinagoga 

 del Transito, afterwards called San Benito. Both are now 

 merely architectural monuments, no longer used for worship. 

 The cloisters adjoining the church of San Juan de los Reyes 

 have been skillfully restored and show all the delicate tracery 

 of column and arch designed by the Gothic architect. Close 

 by is the Escuela de Industrias Artisticas, where young To- 

 ledans are taught in both day and night schools to revive and 

 continue the ancient arts of Spain. 



Toledo is remarkable for its manufacture of swords and for 

 its inlaid gold upon steel and iron. It has also a modern arms 

 factory just outside the walls, but the traveler's attention is 

 chiefly directed to the beautiful swords and daggers twisted 

 into curves and knots in the armorer's show-windows. You 

 are asked to buy the armas blancas or armas negras — either 

 of glistening steel or dull iron containing the marvelous tracer- 

 ies of bright, flashing gold imbedded in Moorish patterns. 

 You may see in Toledo also the posada or inn where Cervantes 

 lodged and where he is said to have written, or at least con- 

 ceived, a portion of "Don Quixote." We were told that 

 if one brought his own food, he could lodge and dine there 

 even now at a peseta (20 cents) a day. 



