Across the Roof of the World. 



and also a custom house, duty being leviable on certain specified 

 articles. 



From Kohala the road assumes an upward gradient, and the 

 scenery partakes more of a cultivated nature, the slopes being 

 well-grown and the artistically built-up terraces irrigated by 

 tiny canals. In the distance one catches sight of giant snow- 

 capped ranges, beneath which stretch thickly wooded forests 

 whose dark green colour lends enchantment to the view, forming 

 a fine background and standing out sharply against the 

 pale blue sky. 



At Dulai I halted for tiffin and then journeyed on another 

 23 miles to Garhi, stopping the night in the dak bungalow, having 

 done 62 miles from Murree. These dak bungalows are very 

 comfortable, being well-appointed and with a good staff of 

 servants, as indeed are all the post houses on this road, the Kashmir 

 state authorities leaving nothing undone in their efforts to meet 

 modern requirements, and the demands of the ever-increasing 

 annual influx into Kashmir from India. I left Garhi at 8 a.m. 

 the next morning, and drove to Uri where I lunched. On the 

 way there we passed several breaks in the road due to the heavy 

 snow-fall of the winter, at one point the w^ay being completely 

 blocked by a huge avalanche of rock and stone. It there 

 became necessary to change tongas, one being in waiting 

 with fresh horses on the far side of the rock slide so no 

 delay was occasioned. Past Uri we came into a good many snow 

 drifts which required careful negotiation, but nothing untoward 

 occurred, and we rolled into Baramula soon after six, putting 

 up at the dak bungalow by the river side. 



From Baramula it is a run of 30 miles to Srinagar, through 

 an avenue of poplars, imparting a pleasing aspect to the route 

 which lies through a broad and open stretch of country. 



Some four miles outside Srinagar I had my first experience of 

 the importunity of the Kashmiri servant, in the person of a 

 shikari who aspired to the honour of being guide, philosopher, 

 and friend to the expedition. This gentk'man pulled up my 



16 



