Across the Roof of the World. 



dangerous ground. The Chenar Bagh was quite empty when I 

 arrived, the influx of visitors from India not having yet com- 

 menced. The weather was cold and dull, whilst towards the 

 ranges of mountains to the north, dark, gloomy clouds filled the 

 air, boding ill for the passage of the Gilgit route, and the crossing 

 of the Tragbal and Burzil Passes. 



I had much to do in Srinagar concerning the final arrange- 

 ments for the onward march of the expedition, and the obtaining 

 of " parwanas," or permits, enabling me to procure coolies and 

 supplies on the way from Bandipur to Gilgit. 



There are in Srinagar, as elsewhere, a number of gentry 

 whose chief aim in hfe seems to be to get to windward of the 

 stranger, so that a certain amount of enquiry is advisable before 

 placing orders. The morning after my arrival, word having 

 gone forth that I was located in the Chenar Bagh, numbers of 

 rascal^ swooped down like vultures, full of that hope which 

 ever buoys up the Oriental spirit when any rupees are to be 

 made, thinking to find an easy prey. Their tenacity was extra- 

 ordinary, and though I was bored by their persistence I secretly 

 admired their ambition. The river fronting my camp was 

 thronged with " shikaras," long canoes resembling somewhat 

 the gondolas of Venice, laden with wares of divers sorts which 

 their owners extolled with a volubihty that dechned to be curbed. 

 On the shore were gathered all the rogues and rascals of Srinagar, 

 tailors, bootmakers, outfitters of every description, all eager to 

 do business, and being particularly anxious that the Sahib should 

 understand they were there entirely for his welfare and that for 

 them to state anything but the truth would be something quite 

 foreign to their nature. 



However, their importunities were unavailing, and when I had 

 enjoyed the play long enough proceeded to pass them out, m 

 which work I was ably supported by my Garhwali orderly, who 

 thoroughly appreciated the fun. 



One of the best and most reliable outfitters in Srinagar, 

 and from whom everything needful can be had, is Mian Mahomed, 



iS 



