Across the Roof of the World. 



husband, K.C.I.E., the Resident in Kashmir, was good enough 



tt) furnish me with the necessary permits for coohes and supphes 

 on the Gilgit route. 



Owing to the very unsettled weather, prospects of getting 

 through to Gilgit were far from cheering, while reports had 

 come down that numerous avalanches had occurred, blocking 

 the road and rendering it impassable even to the hardy post 

 runners. I had experienced great difficulty in obtaining per- 

 mission from the Government of India to proceed by the Gilgit 

 route so early in the season, as it is not considered open until 

 May 15th, on account of the danger from avalanches and snow- 

 slides, a danger which is by no means exaggerated. 



The track winds through narrow and precipitous ravines and 

 valleys, and across two high passes, a journey involving many 

 perils to those who would essay the undertaking in March. 

 Thanks, however, to the assistance afforded me by Sir Francis 

 Younghusband, all difficulties in connection with the necessary 

 permission were surmounted and I boarded my houseboat on 

 the evening of the 29th and set sail for Bandipur, which lies on 

 the other side of the Woolar Lake. All night we glided silently 

 on, propelled by three or four Kashmiri boatmen, through the 

 main waterway of Srinagar and out into the open valley, and 

 skirting the shore of the lake reached Bandipur on the afternoon 

 of the following day. From the lake a magnificent view of forest- 

 clad mountain presents itself, the valleys and ravines therein 

 being noted ground for that fine stag the " barasingh." 



On disembarking at Bandipur my goods and chattels were 

 spread out upon the shore, forming such an imposing array that 

 the natives must have thought I was a Whiteley come to provide. 

 Grouped around my belongings were a number of coolies in 

 readiness to transport them to Gurai, where they would be relieved 

 by others in accordance with arrangements made by the Governor 

 of Kashmir. When the signal was given to load up and march 

 for Tragbal, the first stage from Bandipur, it was quite amusing 

 to watch the efforts of these sturdy varlets to secure the lightest 



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