Across the Roof of the World. 



up 26,670 feet, and dominating the whole valley, truly a 

 stupendous spectacle. 



We had rather an exciting incident on the march from Chalt, 

 just before crossing to the left bank of the Kanjut River. 

 Giyani was mounted on a little hill pony, which, judging from its 

 antics and the gyrations it commenced to perform, must have made 

 him wish he were on his native hillsides rather than on the back 

 of a creature spending most of its time going sideways and per- 

 forming a two-step on its hind legs. Beyond the rest-house there 

 is a large stretch of open ground, on reaching which Giyani's 

 steed went off like a rocket. He hung on manfully, until the 

 saddle slipped round and dislodged him, the pon}^ bolting and 

 defying all efforts at recapture. Fortunately Giyani was not 

 hurt, and having mounted another and quieter charger we 

 proceeded on our way, the last view of the runaway revealing 

 an energetic pursuit by sundry Kanjutis endeavouring to corner 

 him on the slopes high up above the river. 



I had arranged to stay the night in the Political Officer's 

 camp at Phakar, so, taking Giyani with necessary kit, and sending 

 the remainder on by the direct route to Hunza, followed the 

 path to Phakar, a laborious climb, over many zigzags, on to a 

 plateau where I found Major Dew's camp in a delightful orchard, 

 commanding a superb view of Mount Rakapushi, and the 

 Hunza Valley towards the north. The Major had just come 

 down from Hunza, and in order to render the streams passable 

 had had some temporary bridges constructed, the dismantling 

 of which he at once ordered to be delayed until I had passed. 

 This act of thoughtfulness saved me a long journey round and 

 was the rrteans of considerably shortening the distance to Hunza. 

 I spent a very pleasant evening in this camp, listening to the 

 jNIajor's stories of the making of frontiers, and the onerous work 

 our officials are called upon to perform in these outposts of 

 Empire. 



Next morning I started, after breakfasting with Major and 

 Mrs. Dew, on the road to Hunza, involving a steep descent 



40 



