The Mir of Hunza. 



possessing great powers of endurance, and have ever enjoyed a 

 fine reputation for bravery, while former struggles with their 

 neighbours of Nagar, and their raiding exploits, testify to the 

 warlike qualities possessed by them to a marked degree. 



On the afternoon of my arrival, the Mir of Hunza, accom- 

 panied by his little son, Wazir Humayun, and the native Political 

 Assistant, called on me. We had a long conversation, the Mir 

 speaking fluent Hindustani, and proving himself an entertaining 

 man. He had already visited India, and expressed admiration 

 of all he had seen there, more particularly the splendidly trained 

 Indian native army. He enquired as to the latest developments 

 in this world of wonders, and when I informed him that flying 

 was becoming an established fact, and that ships were being 

 made to sail in the air, he was very keen on having one to explore 

 the skies. Tea was served during the visit, his son, a pretty 

 bright-eyed boy, revelling in the delights of a bottle of crystal- 

 lised fruits I produced for his delectation. In the courtyard 

 outside the Mir had his bodyguard drawn up for my inspection, 

 a score of strapping, cheery ruffians, dressed in dark uniforms 

 with red fezzes. The commander of this ferocious-looking squad 

 was a tall swarthy fellow of most determined mien, wearing the 

 full dress tunic of an officer of the Bedfordshire Regiment, but 

 as to how he had acquired it did not transpire. Armed with a 

 long sword, and a revolver stuck in his belt, he seemed altogether 

 an individual of whom to beware. The men of the bodyguard 

 carried old muskets, and impressed me as constituting fine 

 material for the fighting line. 



Later in the afternoon I returned the Mir's call, accompanied 

 by Giyani, looking very spic and span. I was received at the 

 foot of the steps leading to the royal apartments by the Mir and 

 Wazir Humayun. These steps led up through a trap-door in 

 the roof, whence we passed into the reception room, the balconied 

 windows commanding magnificent views of the Hunza Valley 

 and of Mount Rakapushi. The rooms were spread with rugs 

 and carpets, while the walls were hung with portraits of well- 



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