A Typical Kanjuti. 



to replace the one who had accompanied me from Lansdowne 

 in the capacity of cook, but whose general incompetency for the 

 billet had occasioned his discharge here. Piroz Zaman, the new 

 incumbent, was a big, broad-shouldered giant, a typical Kanjuti, 

 and an excellent fellow in every way. He had been with one or 

 two travellers before, and in my service acquitted himself ad- 

 mirably, and at the same time was thoroughly straightforward 

 and honest, and knew a certain amount of Turki. The Mir 

 was kind enough to arrange for him to accompany me as far 

 as I might wish, in which Piroz Zaman readily acquiesced, 

 expressing his willingness to remain with me throughout my 

 wanderings. 



I decided to resume the march to the Pamirs the next day, 

 and, in accordance wnth arrangements made by the native 

 Political Assistant, coolies were in readiness soon after day- 

 break. 



As far as Hunza there is a fairly good road, passable for 

 laden animals, but beyond coolies have to be utilised, for the 

 going is exceedingly rough, over huge parris and through 

 tremendous gorges, in addition to which the river has constantly 

 to be forded. The Mir sent a trusty henchman as guide, 

 philosopher and friend, he journeying with me as far as Misgar, 

 near the foot of the passes leading on to the Taghdumbash, to 

 make necessary arrangements and render me any assistance I 

 might need. I intended to double-march to Gulmit by changing 

 coolies half way at a village called Atabad, so sent them off at 

 8 o'clock in charge of Giyani. The Mir was good enough to come 

 and see me off, wishing me bon voyage and much luck amongst 

 the poli. The weather was now glorious, and the radiant bloom 

 of the Hunza orchards imparted a sense of peace and content, 

 delighting the eye with its fragrant beauty. 



The Hunza Valley, like most of those in the Hindu Kush, is 

 exceedingly rocky, except where the villages are situated. Here 

 one notes patches of apricot trees and cultivation, but towards 

 the north the country is nothing but a stony waste, shut in by 



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