Across the Roof of the World. 



the last I saw of the four they were going at a good speed 

 up-hill, iinally disa])pcaring over the crest into the valley 

 beyond. 



The next day I started before four o'clock. The night had been 

 clear and starry, but very cold and freezing hard. We took the 

 yaks and rode to the foot of the range crossed three days before, 

 and there tethered the animals, proceeding ourselves on foot, 

 over the summit and into the valley on the far side. Again there 

 was nothing to be seen, though we searched the slopes for some 

 distance down, returning to camp in the afternoon. 



Having had enough of the Payik I decided to trek to the 

 Oprang, a nullah at the upper end of the Taghdumbash Valley 

 to the south, and try my luck there. Accordingly I had every- 

 thing packed up, and we marched down the nullah, camping the 

 night by the karaul at the mouth. 



I had rather an amusing experience that day when crossing 

 the Karachukar River at the lower end of the nullah. The yak 

 I rode was meandering along in his usual confidential way, when 

 on the far side of the stream having to get up on to a bank he 

 took a sudden and tremendous leap which lifted me clean out 

 of the saddle and deposited me in the w^ater. I was rather angr^^ 

 with the yak, but it was so funny and must have seemed doubly 

 so to my following, that I overlooked their suppressed hilarity 

 at such a unique sight. 



On the 2ist I did a long march to Tungtoos up the Tagh- 

 dumbash Valley and camped that night by some Kirghiz yurts. 

 I had paid off Arzu and Palang here, engaging another man in the 

 person of Dai Khan who knew the Oprang and Khunjerab nullahs, 

 ground with which the others were not acquainted. The Kirghiz 

 I met here were very hospitable and gave me a hearty welcome, 

 placing one of their yurts at the disposal of my servants, though 

 I preferred my tent. 



Throughout my stay on the Pamirs I invariably found the 

 Kirghiz to be a congenial people, always cheerful, full of fun, 

 and the soul of hospitality. None of the ladies are " purdah 



