Across the Roof of the World. 



along their lowest levels with a thin silvery thread denoting a 

 rushing torrent flowing from its glacier bed above. There in 

 the distance stood out bold and exceptionally well defined the 

 Ili Su Pass I had crossed some days previously, and the peaks 

 on either side of it, whilst farther south one could distinguish 

 the giant summits of that grand chain of mountains, the Mustagh 

 Range, rising above the Raskum Valley, the highest peaks 

 attaining an altitude of more than 26,000 feet. 



Turning to the east and looking over that portion embracing 

 the Kulan Urgu Valley, down which I was now to travel, 

 almost the same scene of savage grandeur met the eye, with the 

 exception that the peaks were not so high, nor the Hne of snowy 

 summits so complete as that spreading itself out to the gaze in 

 the Karakoram and the Mustagh from the western aspect of the 

 Qotchkor Pass. 



Soon after reaching the summit one of those remarkable 

 changes of weather common at high regions came on, and 

 in the place of a cloudless sky and brilliant sunshine, a dark and 

 driving mist supervened, boding ill for the descent and causing 

 us to hasten preparations for the downward journey. The 

 summit of the pass was a narrow razor-backed ridge, with a 

 huge snow-cornice overhanging the eastern side. The descent 

 looked exceedingly steep and dangerous, and the snow-cornice, 

 frozen soHd, offered no means of getting down to the slope beneath. 

 The yak men went along the top endeavouring to find a way 

 for the animals, whilst I assisted Piro and Giyani at tightening 

 ropes and generally readjusting the loads in order to facilitate 

 the downward passage of the laden yaks. 



Presently the drivers returned and reported the only 

 practicable path through the snow-cornice was a difficult one, 

 and asked me to inspect it before allowing the yaks to proceed. 

 This I did and it certainly seemed very hazardous as there was 

 merely a 12-inch ledge leading down at a most acute angle for 

 twenty feet, thence a long, stony slope supervened for a distance 

 of quite 2,000 feet to the bed of the ravine, the surface being 



