Across the Roof of the World. 



covered with numerous well-defined tracks hollowed out by 

 the Kirghiz flocks. 



Further down, and a good nine miles from the summit, 

 we heard the barking of dogs, denoting the camp we 

 were in search of. Descending into the valley and rounding 

 the corner of a spur jutting out from the main ridge, we came 

 on it, a solitary yurt with a small stone hut, the only sign 

 of human habitation in this dark and gloomy wilderness. 

 It was 9 o'clock when we reached the yurt tired and weary, 

 but the Kirghiz, with characteristic hospitality, placed it at 

 my disposal, the occupants disappearing through a low door into 

 the stone hut close by, like rabbits into a warren. 



We were glad to rest awhile after sixteen hours hard 

 work over what may be termed one of the most difficult 

 passes in the world. I, together with Nadir and Giyani, 

 enjoyed a meal of barley boiled in milk, which a pretty Kirghiz 

 girl prepared for our delectation. I then sent off for reinforce- 

 ments from a Kirghiz camp, some miles away, in an adjacent 

 nullah, and later in the night despatched a second man to hasten 

 their arrival, since I wished to return to the dreaded pass the 

 next day and go over the ground where the yak had fallen, in 

 ihe hope of recovering some of my property, particularly the 

 negatives and photographic plates, articles I could ill afford to 

 lose. After supper Nadir proceeded to appropriate sundry 

 numdahs and felt rugs to provide me a couch for the night, while 

 he also brought in firewood from a stack near the yurt, and 

 which had been cut from the willow jungles found in the valley 

 down stream. 



We gathered round the blazing fire and, warmed by its 

 cheery glow, discussed the day's events and the outlook for 

 the morrow. The dancing light lit up the interior of the yurt, 

 the primitive though warm and comfortable dwelling of the Kir- 

 ghiz nomad. The walls were decorated with the usual embroidered 

 cloths, whilst from the staves of the wickerwork constituting the 

 frame on which the yurt is built depended a native guitar, not 



