CHAPTER VII. 



Over the Mountains to Yarkand. 

 The Kiilan Urgii River rises in the glaciers of the Kuen Lun 

 Mountains, and, flowing northward, gathers volume from 

 numerous tributaries racing down from the snows above, until 

 its waters join those of the Yarkand River. It is of deep and 

 abiding interest to note a river throughout its different phases, 

 to observe its source, to watch it gathering strength from the 

 currents which pour down the mountain side, until finally 

 becoming a mighty cataract it sweeps on with irresistible 

 force, its deafening waters resounding throughout the narrow 

 gorges. 



Such a river was the one I was about to travel along, where, 

 the snows having become melted by the summer sun, progress 

 is a matter involving much risk. 



The first ford lay some way down the valley, beyond which 

 I should have to cross and recross the river frequently, follow- 

 ing the devious windings of the path as it meandered from side 

 to side. Mamanur, the Kirghiz Beg, said the river must be 

 forded in the early morning as the night's frost would restrict 

 the amount of water, and that after noon I should find it impos- 

 sible. I therefore hoped to negotiate several the first day out, 

 as a continuance of the prevailing warm weather would bring 

 the water down in a deluge. 



Arrived at the river bank, Mamanur took the lead, I follow- 

 ing with the rest of the cavalcade, all mounted on strong yaks, 

 the best to be procured for the task. The current was well 

 above the saddle flaps and rushing like a millrace. Crossing at 

 right angles was impossible owing to its depth and force, so v/e 



