Across the Roof of the World. 



was ah-eady well advanced and the increase of water pro- 

 hibited any further risks being run. However, we gained 

 the opposite bank, moving on down to Haldir, another village 

 of stone huts similar in every respect to that just passed 

 through. I camped near the river bank in a delightful little 

 orchard of apricot trees, whose spreading branches afforded 

 grateful shade from the noonday sun. The inhabitants totalled 

 some fifty souls, the majority coming down to view the new arrival 

 from the outer world. I had no difficulty in procuring supplies, 

 the people showing considerable readiness in producing eggs, 

 milk and fruit, arrangements having been made by the energetic 

 Nadir. The local headman had prepared a house for me, spread- 

 ing it with carpets and numdahs, but I preferred the apricot 

 grove and my tent. 



Judging by the force of the current in the river, now 

 at its maximum fury, I foresaw an obstacle to my forward 

 movement on the morrow, as unless a considerable diminution 

 occurred before morning there would be no hope of crossing, 

 since nothing could live in that raging cataract, swirling onward, 

 a seething mass of waters. The villagers said that during 

 summer they were often imprisoned for weeks at a stretch, cut 

 off from all communication with villages either up or down- 

 stream, and that if any bold spirit desired to cross he generally 

 accomplished it on a raft made of inflated goat skins. This is 

 the usual method adopted by the natives here in crossing rivers 

 and transporting their worldly goods from one side to the other. 

 They also transport their women by the same means, though 

 the ladies must have a rough experience at flood time. 



The water had risen considerably the following morning, 

 and the truculent manner in which it confronted me dispelled all 

 chance of getting over. One of the villagers, knowing the ford 

 well, brought his horse, and waded hither and thither searching 

 for a passage, but his efforts were futile, so I was compelled 

 to wait. Hopes were held out of some decrease in volume 

 occurring between 8 and 9 o'clock, but when noon came and 



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