Ill Warmer Climes. 



Far below in the valley I came upon a solitary yurt occupied 

 by a Kirghiz shepherd and his wife, who were about to move to 

 the higher ground for the summer with their flocks. Here I 

 camped the night after a record march, the yaks coming in at 

 half-past eight. 



From other Kirghiz inhabiting a side valley I secured 

 fresh animals for the journey down the Asgar Sai, and, having 

 paid off the men from the Kulan Urgu, started the next morning 

 at 5 o'clock, crossing and recrossing the stream at frequent 

 intervals. It held little water so the operation was accomplished 

 without any of the danger and excitement we had encountered 

 elsewhere. I was now entering an inhabited and more or less 

 cultivated country, the hills becoming lower, grassy and more 

 rounded, whilst native villages, nestled amongst orchards of 

 apricot trees, were in constant evidence. 



I halted at Zumchi about mid-day to exchange the yaks for 

 ponies, as the former were unable to proceed further in the low 

 altitudes, since they are out of their element in even a moderately 

 warm climate. I was able to raise sufficient pony transport and 

 again pushed on to Thayis, arriving there after another 14-hour 

 march. The valley was here about a mile and a-half wide, with 

 numerous trees and cultivation, though the hills off the line of 

 the oasis preserved a desert aspect, in striking contrast to 

 the cultivated areas between. 



At Tar Aghzi, a few miles above Thayis, I passed under 

 the lee of some remarkable stratified loess formations that 

 from afar have the appearance of rocks. At Thayis I camped 

 in a large orchard belonging to one of the head men. 



Apparently the passing of a white man is an uncommon event 

 for the natives came in crowds to pay their respects and present 

 cakes, fruit, milk, and similar articles. Giyani played the part of 

 a showman and exhibited my X-pattern bed and collapsible 

 table, which quite mystified them. They live their lives far away 

 in the heart of Asia, unmoved by the turmoil of the outer world, 

 and oblivious of the mighty march of civilisation and the marvels 



