I Reach Yarkand. 



into the barge, a feat some of them accomphshed though 

 others came to grief in the water, causing energetic action 

 on the part of the natives to save their plunging steeds. 

 The real fun, however, came when the ropes were cast off 

 and the barge floated out into midstream. The current was 

 rapid, and once away from the shore the barge was caught like a 

 cork and swirled down stream. This galvanised everyone into 

 an activity that showed itself in frantic shouts and yells, all at 

 the acme of excitement, whilst the sturdy boatmen pulled with 

 giant oars from the stern, bringing the unwieldy barque with 

 a bump into the opposite bank that nearly capsized all hands. 

 More shouting and gesticulation ensued as the disembarkation 

 took place, until finally all were ashore, when the boat was towed 

 up stream and brought across to transport more voyagers. By 

 this time my caravan had put in an appearance, so we loaded up 

 and took them over, the exciting incidents I had previously 

 witnessed being repeated. 



From Aktum I had been accompanied by the Beg's son and 

 a Yuzbashi, a minor official, whose title signifies " Head of a 

 hundred." They are responsible for districts under Chinese 

 Government comprising one hundred houses. With these two 

 worthies and Nadir I left the caravan after crossing the Yarkand 

 River, and pushed ahead through shady lanes, doing the greater 

 part of the distance at a good canter. Some four miles outside 

 Yarkand I was met by the British Aksakal, a native Consular 

 subordinate appointed to watch the interests of British subjects 

 and assist them generally. Thus escorted I rode on through the 

 outskirts to the gate of the city, whence we entered streets flanked 

 by shops and low mud houses, until reaching a house prepared for 

 me by the Aksakal. It was two-roomed, the larger of which I 

 turned into a hving room, the other being relegated to the needs 

 of the kitchen and my staff. There was a verandah running 

 round three sides of the courtyard, the fourth looking out 

 over the garden, where I was able to enjoy some delicious fruit. 

 Inside my pavilion the floor had been spread with carpets and 



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