CHAPTER VIII. 



Across the Plains to Kashgar. 



The people of Yarkand do not impress the traveller, their air and 

 bearing being that of a race showing them to have suffered many 

 vicissitudes. They display an entire lack of energy and enterprise, 

 or indeed of any interest in Hfe, doubtless due to the many wars 

 that have from time to time raged in Kashgaria between the 

 Chinese, Mahommedans and others for supremacy, leaving traces 

 deep rooted in the character of the Turkoman. 



The dress of the men consists of a loose flowing robe of black 

 or coloured material, exchanged in winter for one lined with 

 cotton wool. Beneath this are worn pyjamas tucked into leather 

 boots reaching to the knee, of pecuHar make in that they boast 

 neither heel nor sole. When the wearer goes abroad he dons a 

 high-heeled shoe that is kicked off on entering a house. On the 

 head is worn a cloth or silk cap, but in winter one lined with fur 

 is preferred. 



The dress of the women is similar to that of the men, with 

 perhaps a greater abundance of nether garments peculiar to 

 the feminine world, on which I do not feel qualified to express 

 an opinion. Very few of the ladies are veiled, the rules 

 regarding the seclusion of women not being so strict as in 

 other Musulman countries. A veil is, however, worn, a network 

 affair attached to the cap and thrown forward over the face, 

 or carried on the top of the head at will. The usual practice is 

 to wear it in the latter position, the majority of the ladies, as far 

 as one could see, not being overburdened with modesty. 



There are a large number of shops in Yarkand built of mud, 

 or sun-dried bricks, with nothing of architectural beauty about 



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