Across the Roof of the World. 



my uniform, and accompanied by Giyani, and a host of others 

 riding two abreast in rear, I set forth in procession through 

 the bazaars on my way thither, a distance of more than a 

 mile. 



The sight of a British officer in full regimentals is not a common 

 one in Central Asia, for the natives flocked in crowds to see us 

 as we rode through the streets. One man went ahead with a long 

 and formidable stick and belaboured every unfortunate individual 

 who failed to make himself scarce. We occupied all available 

 space on the road, and when any other horsemen were encountered 

 they were unceremoniously hustled into side alleys, or sent 

 cannoning into shops, to the delight of Giyani and the energetic 

 protestations of the shopkeepers, who resented the intrusion by 

 vociferous shouts, adding to the general commotion raised by my 

 prancing cavalcade. 



A mounted man preceded me to the Yamen, intimating I 

 M'as on my way, and on reaching the entrance I found a large 

 crowd assembled. I rode on into the courtyard through 

 numerous gates, and then dismounted. There was a raised dais in 

 front with a big door in the centre, which was thrown open as I 

 approached it. The retainers followed by a side door, and then, 

 preceded by a minion of the Amban holding my card before him, 

 I marched through the inner courtyard, being greeted at the 

 end by the Amban. After cordially shaking hands we passed 

 through more doorways into the reception room, the walls 

 decorated with Chinese scrolls, while a small table was placed 

 at one side of the room spread with sweetmeats, fruit and 

 Russian cigarettes. We then carried on a conversation 

 through interpreters. I spoke Hindustani to the x\ksakal, who 

 translated it into Turki for the Amban's interpreter, he in turn 

 rendering it into Chinese and thus delivering the substance of 

 my conversation to the Amban. It is difficult to converse on 

 these lines, though we succeeded better than might have been 

 expected. As the Chinese oflicials either do not know Turki or 

 profess ignorance of it the\' employ interpreters, a wearisome 



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