Visit to the Chinese Governor. 



mode of procedure and one hardly conducive to the brilHant 

 exchange of ideas. 



The Amban enquired after my health, and as to my journey 

 from India. At the same time he expressed his extreme regret 

 at not receiving earlier notice of my approach to Yarkand since 

 it would have enabled him to meet and welcome me in person to 

 his capital. This was, of course, only exaggerated politeness 

 on the part of the Celestial, and would be colloquially designated 

 in this country "swank." 



In the meantime tea was served, the Amban himself handing 

 me mine with a graceful bow, and sugaring it, a compliment I 

 returned with interest. 



There are some curious customs to observe when amongst 

 the Chinese, one being that the ceremonial tea is not taken until 

 one is ready to depart, so having done mutual honours we 

 resumed the conversation. He asked me if I had experienced 

 any hardships on the road and I replied I had, but that the 

 pleasure of coming to Yarkand and meeting him had entirely 

 obliterated the thought of them from my memory. He said 

 London must indeed be a gorgeous city, to which I replied it 

 could not be compared to Pekin. He thought England was a 

 mighty country, with which remark I mentally agreed, though 

 my reply was to the effect that China was a Paradise on earth. 

 He was very anxious for me to dine with him, an invitation I 

 cordially accepted. When I had perjured my soul sufficient to 

 warrant eternal damnation I drank the ceremonial tea and 

 departed for the residence of the Hsei Tai, or Officer Commanding 

 the troops. The Amban accompanied me to the outer courtyard, 

 where, having again shaken hands, I mounted my charger, and 

 followed by the same prancing bodyguard rode out and into the 

 Brigadier's Yamen a short distance away. 



I found the officer a charming personage, no longer in his 

 youth, but well on to the allotted span of three score years and 

 ten. He had seen much fighting in China, and related some 

 of his exploits, which conveyed through the channel of three 



