Across the Roof of the World. 



sense. Rather he excels as a painter, his prowess in this respect 

 being responsible for many gorgeously decorated documents, 

 of which my passport was an interesting example. As to just 

 how long it takes to turn out a finished scribe in China I am not 

 competent to express an opinion, but judging from the laborious 

 exertions of some of the pupils, I imagine it must be many moons 

 before one can be said to be a wielder of the brush of a high order. 



The Amban continually asked me what I thought and seemed 

 much pleased at the praise I had to bestow. Here indeed one 

 had a Chinese official who really wished to move on modern 

 lines, and foster any scheme tending to further those ideas. 

 After the inspection we moved on to the garden, a well-shaded 

 spot graced by many trees. In the centre was a raised pavilion 

 open round the sides with a flight of steps leading up to it. The 

 whole of the Chinese aristocracy had been invited and kept 

 arriving up to noon. All were arrayed in full dress, being most 

 punctilious and polite, and bowing profoundly. There were 

 Treasury Oflicers, Secretaries, the Governor of Maralbashi, 

 whom I was to meet later on on my way through his district, 

 and many others. The old Colonel also arrived looking very 

 pleased with himself and beaming all over like a schoolgirl 

 out for a picnic. 



There was, too, the Amban in charge of the Customs, a clean- 

 shaven individual with the build of a bruiser, and the air of a 

 " chucker-out." Whilst the reception of the guests was in 

 progress we were enlivened by the strains of a Turkistan band, 

 a rude assortment of native instruments, and dancing by men 

 and boys, who squirmed heavily, but whose knowledge of the 

 terpsichorean art was limited, at any rate from the European 

 standpoint. The ladies of whose dancing so much is heard were 

 not forthcoming, so we had not the pleasure of gazing upon these 

 females reputed to be so prepossessing. 



At intervals, tea, cakes, melon seeds, and other delicacies in 

 Chinese eyes, were served, of which everyone partook with great 

 gusto. The Chinese when giving a dinner certainly do it well as 



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