Rapacious Shopkeepers. 



One gets a good idea of the size of Yarkand from the walls of 

 the Chinese city, but the view is in every respect a disappointing 

 one, with httle to relieve the monotony of plain mud roofs. 

 Even the temples or " musjids " of the Musulmans possess nothing 

 that strike the eye, architectural features in them, as in all 

 other buildings in this country, being conspicuous by their 

 absence. 



By the great gate of the city I passed the police station 

 where half-a-dozen men acted as guardians of the peace. Their 

 ideas on the subject of discipline were distinctly original, for 

 all, including the officer in charge, were busy gambling. The 

 pohceman on duty had dropped a formidable battle-axe, the 

 mere sight of which ought to strike terror into the heart of the 

 evildoer, and joined his comrades inside, leaving the law and its 

 keeping to take care of itself. 



A variety of Chinese and native shops exist here, the latter 

 displaying handsome brass jugs, known as chaguns. Through 

 the energy of the Aksakal I was enabled to purchase a beauti- 

 fully embroidered Chinese robe, only met with to any extent in 

 this part of Turkistan. I also acquired some ancient brass work, 

 and other interesting articles, but generally it was difficult 

 work bargaining, as the shopkeepers demanded exorbitant 

 prices, especially the Chinese, who must have thought I had 

 journeyed to the country for their especial benefit, judging from 

 the value at which they assessed their goods. 



The Amban's dinner had been such a succcess that the Hsei 

 Tai also determined to give one, an intimation causing me not 

 a little uneasiness. He was anxious to make it an all-day 

 sitting but I pleaded press of work, and did not put in an appear- 

 ance until 4 o'clock. The dinner was to be preceded by a review 

 of the garrison, and as I had not seen much of the soldiery of 

 Chinese Turkistan before, I anticipated an enjoyable afternoon. 

 My departure for Kashgar was timed for the same evening, so 

 I engaged carts for the baggage and servants to go ahead, I 

 intending to follow later. 



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