Across the Roof of the World. 



During the day several of the Indian traders came to tea on 

 my invitation, I having been unable to meet them at the enter- 

 tainment given in my honour the previous day. Afterwards I 

 sent off Piro and Nadir with the baggage and arranged another 

 conveyance for myself and Giyani to await me outside the city 

 walls, where I proposed joining it after the Hsei Tai's dinner. 



At the entrance to the mihtary Yamen the gallant officer 

 received me, the garrison being drawn up on either side of the 

 approach to the main doorway. The troops were of all ages 

 from i6 to 60, while their armament was decidedly antiquated, 

 some being provided with old Tower muskets, whilst others had 

 nothing more formidable than blunderbusses and spears. But 

 if there was a paucity of arms of serious worth enough banners 

 were in evidence to fit out a Drury Lane pantomime, so if 

 victory could be gained by the display of a plethora of flags 

 and " jhandis," then the Chinese certainly ought to achieve it. 

 As might be expected, all the weapons were in a state of dirt, 

 brought about by generations of neglect, so that to fire one 

 would doubtless require a few days' notice. The garrison is, I 

 believe, returned at some five hundred men, but the total 

 strength on parade did not exceed one hundred and ten. 



At the close of the inspection we adjourned to the banqueting 

 hall, where the repast was served. As I was to leave for Kashgar 

 afterwards I partook in moderation, steadily parrying all attempts 

 levelled at me by enthusiastic guests. The H-ei Tai had arranged 

 for an escort of cavalry to accompany me, whilst the Amban 

 detailed a member of his staff to attend me to the limits of his 

 jurisdiction. 



After dinner, which comprised the same assortment of deli- 

 cacies I had encountered when dining with the Amban, I bade 

 farewell to my genial hosts, riding out to the conveyance await- 

 ing me under the great walls of the city. The vehicle in question 

 is known as a " mapa," an instrument of torture resembling an 

 oblong box on springless wheels, its tyres studded with huge hob 

 nails. As the roads are full of ruts and pitfalls, and the bridges 



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