Across the Roof of the World. 



and had been moreover thoroughly honest, certainly rare qualities 

 in Eastern servants. 



It was my intention to proceed via Maralbashi, Aksu and 

 thence east to Kuchar and northwards over the eastern Thian 

 Shan into the Great Yulduz Valley, the principal, though httle 

 known, valley of this range of mountains. This route, I gathered, 

 would embrace many difficulties, but having heard a variety of 

 wild sheep existed on the Yulduz Plains I wished to spend a few 

 days there in the hope of bagging some. 



On July 3rd, therefore, I took leave of Captain Shuttle- 

 worth, after three pleasant weeks in Kashgar, and accompanied 

 by one of the Consular orderlies, rode forty-eight miles to 

 Faizabad, reaching there shortly before six in the evening. I 

 changed mounts half-way, which gave rise to an amusing 

 incident. Horses in this part of the world are not flyers, the 

 Turkoman being content to meander along the road in a style 

 unsuited to the European temperament. The consequence was 

 when my steed showed signs of weariness we cast about for fresh 

 means of locomotion. At that moment the Consular orderly espied 

 a mounted villager some distance away and promptly chased 

 him before I could intervene. The wretched man took to pre- 

 cipitate flight pursued by the orderly who, overtaking him, 

 administered a clout over the back which brought him somewhat 

 ungracefully to earth, more frightened than hurt, though he 

 soon recovered at the sight of a douceur I gave him. 



Being desirous of pushing on the same night, in order to avoid 

 the heat and flies during daylight, I at once donned my uniform 

 on arrival in Faizabad and called on the Amban, whom I had 

 met in Kashgar. I arranged for fresh carts, and after he had 

 returned my call, packed up and trekked on. 



It is practically impossible to travel through the Maralbashi 

 country during the day owing to the heat and flies, so one is glad 

 to rest in the shade rather than journey in a moving purgatory. 

 I therefore travelled during the night, halting each day until 

 five in the evening; 



152 



