Across the Roof of the World. 



returned to camp much elated at recovering the gun, I hoping 

 the lesson might have a salutary effect. 



I obtained fresh horses in Yakka Kudak, and, leaving there 

 in the evening, moved on to Chilan through Yaidu, a grim-looking 

 spot with nothing to recommend it but tamarisk, mosquitoes, 

 dirt and heat. 



At Chilan I halted beyond the village on the Aksu road, 

 and again hired fresh horses. The entire population was 

 out for the day at a place called Kalpin, some distance to 

 the north, so I was unable to procure any supplies beyond an 

 egg or two, which my apology for a cook could do nothing with. 

 I had engaged this blot on humanity in Kashgar, with another 

 equally as bad, to replace Piroz and Nadir, as there would have 

 been considerable difficulty in returning the latter to their homes 

 from the distant Thian Shan. I daily regretted the loss of 

 their services, as I afterwards thought satisfactory arrangements 

 could have been made for their return to Hunza. 



I trekked again on July nth. the road leading over a level sandy 

 country, hard going for the horses. I halted three hours at 

 Choi Utak, a march of eighteen miles, where the water was horribly 

 brackish. Another seventeen miles took me into Sai Arik, a 

 wearisome trek over the same sand and scrub-covered plain, 

 the going being exceptionally heavy, with occasional stretches 

 of muddy and swampy ground. 



From Sai Arik one reaches a cultivated country again, and 

 this continues with intervals up to Aksu, twenty-one miles 

 beyond. I had changed horses and carts at Sai Arik, so was 

 able to resume with renewed zeal. 



I crossed the Aksu River in huge flat-bottomed boats and 

 camped in a large garden beyond the Chinese city, which, as 

 usual, is distinct from the Turkoman one. 



On arrival I sent my card and passport to the Yamen, 

 and the Governor, despatching his in return, invited me 

 to dine with him that evening. I accepted, and met there two 

 Americans who had travelled across China from Pekin on their 



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