Across the Roof of the World. 



crossing the Kizil Su just outside the village. North and south 

 of the road were low ranges of hills, of an average height of about 

 2,000 feet, bare red sandstone, in keeping with the aspect of 

 desolation around. I camped beyond Kizil, till one o'clock in 

 the morning, on an open stony plain, where the road assumes 

 an upward gradient to Shildar, a small post and customs house 

 in charge of an old Chinese munshi, who insisted on regaling me 

 with tea and cakes in his dwelling. 



I reached Kuchar on the afternoon of July 20tli, and camped 

 in a pleasant orchard. I had been met by the seven or eight 

 traders who live here, and they were very kind and attentive. 

 The following day I called on the Amban, an old man long past 

 active work, being accompanied to the Yamen by a brilliant 

 ■escort of traders and others dressed in the height of fashion. 

 We made a gallant show riding through the bazaars and the 

 whole place was en fete, for the spectacle of a Sahib in full war 

 paint was even more unusual than in Yarkand. . 



At the interview we discussed my intention to strike north 

 from Kuchar and cross the Thian Shan by some doubtless difficult 

 passes I knew must exist there. After shooting in the Great 

 Yulduz Valley I wished to trek west to the Tekkes Valley, in the 

 neighbourhood of which the best ibex and wapiti shooting is 

 obtainable. The Amban, however, advised me to go via the 

 main road to Kulja, running through Karashahr and Urumchi, 

 saying he knew nothing of the northward route and that it was 

 impassable, no one ever going that way, and insisting I should 

 perish in attempting it. 



On his returning my call he reiterated these remarks and 

 urged my following the main road, but I pointed out the object 

 of my journey was sport, and that it could not be found in the 

 bazaars or gazing at the shops, arguments which were unanswer- 

 able. There were no horses here for sale, nor could I at first 

 find any on hire, though I offered much more than the usual 

 rates. Later, however, I concluded arrangements for hiring. 



The Amban declared there was no road by the route I wished 

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