I Visit the Chief of the Kalmuks. 



reminded me of some lines a miner wrote on a tree outside Cool- 

 gardie in Western Australia — 



D the track both there and back, 



D the flies and d the weather, 



D Coolgardie altogether. 



Substitute the Yulduz in place of Coolgardie and we have it. 



I started about ten the next morning, accompanied by the 

 Kalmuk guide, riding some eight miles across the plain to another 

 collection of auls. Here the Kalmuk appeared in his true light. 

 He said the Khan lived 50 " putai " away, a small matter of 

 125 miles, and that it would take many days to get there, his 

 horse would die on the way, and he himself would starve. 



We argued for an hour and I at last induced him to proceed, 

 by which time it was past noon. I little knew what was in 

 store for me. We rode on and on, trotting and cantering, and at 

 six in the evening reached a Kazak yurt by the banks of the river, 

 where I commandeered fresh horses and then pushed on harder 

 than ever. By 8 o'clock it was pitch dark, and soon after we had 

 to ford a deep and wide river three times, which at night on 

 tired horses and in black darkness is naturally hazardous. 

 Luckily the Kalmuk knew the way and we managed the first 

 ford without difficulty. The second was not so easy and 

 my steed could only by the greatest exertions keep his feet in 

 the swirling waters which sped on with alarming velocity. The 

 third ford was a mile further up, and when half-way across I 

 heard the tinkle of bells and on the opposite bank encountered 

 a long file of camels. They were laden with tea and other articles 

 going into the Great Yulduz to barter amongst the Kalmuks for 

 skins and felt. These people told me the Khan's camp was still 

 a long way off, and that there were at least 500 auls there. 



Towards 10 o'clock we reached some more yurts, and here the 

 Kalmuk wished to stay the night, saying the home of the Khan 

 was still miles and miles away. I, however, insisted on pro- 

 ceeding, so we rode on through the same low valley, bordered 

 with hills, the main feature being their rounded aspect looming 



177 N 



