Across the Roof of the- World. 



The village of auls here was by far the largest I encountered 

 in the Thian Shan, there being nearly 300. Those belonging to 

 the Khan and his suite were situated within a large square formed 

 by other auls, several of the royal dwellings being as large as 

 marquees. The material used in their construction was of the 

 best quality, and profusely adorned with strips of red felt, 

 imparting a regal air to their otherwise sombre mien. A 

 large number of watchdogs were about, each wearing a 

 scarlet collar, and specially kept to guard the Khan's tents : 

 the same noisy fiends who had greeted m}' arrival the night 

 before. 



After settling details regarding transport I proceeded to 

 breakfast in the aul prepared for me. Its usual role was that of 

 a durbar hall, where the Khan administered justice and settled 

 any cases arising amongst the community. Just above the 

 doorway was a formidable whip with an abnormally thick and 

 heavy lash, which, the Wazir informed me, was employed when 

 •sentences of castigation were awarded. Judging from its appear- 

 ance it must need a hide of leather to withstand the shock of 

 such an instrument. 



After breakfast I held a levee at which most of the Kalmuks 

 in the camp were present, and they took great interest in me on 

 learning I had come from India, asking many questions concerning 

 Tibet, towards which, as Buddhists, they turn a reverential eye. 

 They were especially enamoured of my rifles and shot-gun, 

 examining the barrels and expressing considerable admiration 

 at the polished surface. Some of the more wealthy were keen 

 to become the possessors of such weapons, one man offering two 

 of his best horses for either of the three, whilst another made 

 equally tempting offers on somewhat different lines, but to no 

 purpose. Whilst my reception was in full swing two Kirghiz head- 

 men arrived from the Jirgalan Valley some distance to the west, 

 with a report that a large number of horses had been stolen from 

 the Kazak herds by predatory Kalmuk horse thieves. The 

 Wazir and the principal men retired to discuss the matter, 



182 



