Across the Roof of the World. 



differing considerably from the Kalmuks, who always impressed 

 me as having in them the stuff that makes the fighting man. 



The Kazaks are an indifferent race, seeming to pass the greater 

 part of their time in attempts to lift their neighbours' cattle, an 

 occupation which is the chief bone of contention amongst the 

 various tribes or sections. Those across the border in Russian 

 territory seem to be the principal offenders, frequently appearing 

 unawares, and driving off herds of horses from the Chinese side. 

 One Kazak who accompanied me down the Jirgalan Valley had 

 had 36 horses stolen out of 100, the thieves having driven them 

 off into Russian territory, where all trace had been lost. I had 

 a good deal of trouble with these gentry, which constantly called 

 for the display of a determined front and a formidable Turki 

 whip. 



Again I could gather no information as to shikar in the neigh- 

 bourhood, everyone's ignorance on the subject being most exas- 

 perating, and it seemed as though the long and weary trek via 

 Kuchar and the Yulduz Valley w^as destined to be productive of 

 no results. I wished I had been acquainted with the nature of the 

 country, as, instead of marching that tremendous distance,! could 

 have gone from Aksu to the Tekkes Valley over the Muzart Pass 

 in ten days. I should thus have avoided much hardship and 

 toiling through a land to a large extent uninhabited and containing 

 little or nothing to tempt the shikari, and it w^as for shikar that 

 I had embarked on the great trek from India. It was now, 

 however, too late to regret, but one thing above all others became 

 firmly impressed upon me, and that is, that pioneering fresh 

 shooting grounds is a poor game, especial!}^ when pursuing it 

 amongst a far from congenial people. 



The fresh ponies for the onward journey appeared during the 

 evening, so I was able to pay off the Kalmuks and send them 

 back to the Yulduz. The Kazaks at this camp presented me with 

 sheep, and were generally pleasant and obliging, and I began 

 to think they must be rather nice people, in which opinion I was, 

 from later experience, much mistaken. 



192 



