Across the Roof of the World. 



tent were clumps of fir and pine, altogether a most picturesque 

 spot. I was off again the following day at 8 o'clock, along 

 and over grassy hills, thence down into another valley where I 

 halted for tiffin. Some Kazaks from adjacent auls provided 

 milk and wood, and came in large numbers to view the stranger 

 from the outside world. I was told here that horse thieves in 

 this part of the Thian Shan were numerous, and not at all 

 particular as to the means they employed to attain their ends. 

 I was advised to keep a sharp look out for them, their principal 

 manoeuvre being to stampede one's horses in the dead of night. 

 As I was responsible for the ponies engaged to accompany me 

 through to the Tekkes Valley, I determined to frustrate as far as 

 possible any little coups these freebooters might contemplate. 

 Having come far and suffered much, I was not at all in the 

 mood to be trifled with, so was quite prepared to meet any 

 of their advances with powder and shot. To show that 

 T meant business I paraded my battery at this camp, as a 

 hint to look out for squalls in the event of an^'thing untoward 

 occurring. 



The next day I crossed another low range whence ensued a 

 long descent into the valley beyond by a zigzag path completely 

 hidden by tall grass. In the valley, here half a mile wide, w^e came 

 on some Kazaks returning from the Jirgalan valley whither I now 

 wished to proceed on my way to the Tekkes. I had been unable 

 to procure guides to indicate the nearest and best path from the 

 last camp, as the Kazaks there knew nothing of the country, 

 and not wishing to be lost in the mountains by inexperienced 

 guides I preferred to pick up one en route. I commandeered 

 two of these men to pilot us the next day, and a hard job it was 

 rounding them up, for they made great efforts to abscond, but 

 being surrounded had to yield to force and bow to the inevitable. 

 To obviate the chances of their absenting themselves during the 

 night I had all their saddlery packed in my tent, and their horses 

 tethered close by, so an escape would have been rather a 

 sacrifice for them. I had had the camp pitched by the river bank 



194 



