Across the Roof of ihe World. 



merchant's hut, where I found Nurah looking quite a g3.y 

 Lothario, arrayed in new garments and having indulged in the 

 luxury of a shave, a striking contrast to the picture of shabby 

 gentility he had presented prior to leaving me ; in fact, I did not 

 at lirst recognise him. 



I arranged for fresh transport and paid off that I had had 

 with me throughout my shoot in the hills. The heads had been 

 lodged here during my absence and I found everything in good 

 order, the merchant having stored them carefully on the roof of 

 his house, well out of harm's way, for which I handsomely re- 

 warded him. There was a good deal of snow in the Tekkes 

 Valley, showing that winter had begun in earnest, in addition to 

 which it froze hard every day. 



I trekked on on the morning of the 28th, but having been 

 able to secure only four ponies I marched on with the original 

 animals half way across the valley, having previously despatched 

 Numgoon and Giyani to hire others, and I met them a few 

 miles out, so changed loads and proceeded on my way. 



The Tekkes Valley is here about 25 miles wide and covered 

 with grass to an unlimited extent. The hills flanking the valley 

 on its northern confines are treeless and rounded and bear a 

 dismal aspect compared to those on the southern side. There 

 was snow in patches right across the valley, the air being keen 

 and sharp, though the chmate generally was not of the same 

 rigorous nature I had experienced up in the valleys. 



We forded the Tekkes River late in the afternoon, the width 

 being some 400 feet, and the depth and strength of the current 

 quite moderate. Earlier in the season this river would, of 

 course, be impassable, but we were now entering on winter, 

 whose icy grip had already reduced the flow of water in every 

 stream. 



A mile or so on the northern side of the river I camped by 

 some^Kalmuk auls, the population on the northern side of the 

 valley being largely composed of them. One of the auls was put 

 at my disposal, but I handed it over to the servants, preferring 



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