Ceremonial Calls. 



which mainly centred on my journey and the sport I had enjoyed 

 in the Tekkes Valley, was conducted in French. The Consul - 

 had been 13 years in Turkistan so was well acquainted with the ■ 

 country. 



In the afternoon I went to call on some Belgian missionaries 

 living near the town, Messieurs Raemdonck and vSteinmann, 

 who received me most hospitably. They have been many years ■ 

 in the country and form part of the China Inland Mission, but 

 as to whether their efforts to convert the heathen in this part of 

 the world meet ^^dth any tangible success is difficult to say. The 

 number of converts at present in Kulja is only 80, so that it 

 must indeed be uphill work for the good fathers. 



I stayed to supper with them, a simple meal, served in semi- 

 Chinese style by a Chinese servant, after which we smoked and 

 they imparted the news of the world, and I then drove back to 

 my quarters. 



The next day, November 3rd, I called on the Taotai, whose 

 yamen is situated within the walled city. He is a Manchu and 

 an official of high rank, and at the moment of my visit was wearing 

 a very fine ermine coat. The little square table in the centre 

 of the reception room was spread with sweetmeats and 

 Russian cigarettes, whilst tea and a brand of Russian wine 

 was served, the latter of which I found to be quite good. The 

 conversation was confined to general topics, the Taotai being 

 much interested on hearing I had bagged two wapiti, enquiring 

 as to the length of the horns, evidently thinking I should turn 

 them into medicine on my return to Europe, despite my assur- 

 ances to the contrary. 



From the Taotai's yamen I went on to the Shingwan, or 

 Police Magistrate, a local Governor, who talked volubly, and 

 displayed a keen interest in my wanderings, though he, too, shared 

 the Taotai's views and could not understand why one should 

 endure much discomfort when there was no money to be made 

 out of it. 



Both these good people had, of course, sent their cards with 

 305 ^ 



