On the Trek Again. 



I was assured I should be able to engage ponies from place 

 to place without difficulty, and thus be in a position to move 

 with greater celerity than would otherwise be the case. I 

 therefore arranged for sufficient ponies to accompany me as 

 far as the Borotala River, which flows through the country 

 lying between the Sairam and Ebi Nor Lakes to the north-east 

 of Kulja and distant five marches therefrom. 



On the morning of the 12th I sent off the kit and then went 

 to lunch with the Cossack Captain Krepotchikov. I had engaged 

 a tarantass with three horses, and with Giyani on the box and 

 several tinkling bells on the troika, sailed forth accompanied 

 by many shouts from the cheery Cossacks. It is 46 versts from 

 Kulja to Suidun by a fair road, as the latter go in Chinese 

 dominions, though it would scarcely bear comparison with the 

 London to Brighton coach road, but then it was, of course, 

 Chinese, and when one has said that one has said everything. 



I arrived at Suidun at 9 o'clock that night and had some 

 difficulty in gaining admittance to the town as the gates were 

 closed and everyone had gone home. It was only by the most 

 vigorous banging and thumping on the gate that I finally brought 

 some sleepy Chinese on the scene, who proceeded to open up 

 under protest. 



Three miles south of Suidun is the new town, where resides 

 the Viceroy of Ili, the important personage I have alread}^ 

 mentioned, who apparently to maintain the dignity of his position 

 requires a town of his own. 



In the morning I visited the Chinese quarter, as usual, 

 distinct from the Taranchi City and surrounded by a high 

 wall, to see one of the Belgian missionaries who has charge of 

 this part of the diocese. He very kindly offered to put me 

 up, so I accordingly had the baggage moved round to his 

 place. 



Father Schidmt's house was a Chinese structure, with a central 

 hall opening off on either hand into apartments, and a raised 

 dais at the far end, on which one slept. I occupied the room on 



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