Across the Roof of the World. 



range of mountains already referred to, a high snow-covered 

 chain running east and west, the greater part being within the 

 confines of the Russian Empire. The openness of the terrain 

 gave full scope to the wind, which blew with great force, 

 rendering travelling a matter of extreme hardship, not unmixed 

 with danger, for therein lies the risk of trekking in the winter 

 months, the wind often overwhelming the luckless traveller in 

 its icy grip. 



A steady march of eight miles took me into the hills and along 

 the course of a small river flowing through the ravine I had 

 entered. The stream was frozen firm and solid, and in places 

 the ravine was so narrow that we were obliged to proceed on 

 the ice, a mode of progression not at all conducive to easy 

 going for the horses, who slipped and fell constantly on the 

 treacherous surface. 



Higher up, in a side ravine which led off from the right 

 bank, I reached a karaul at three in the afternoon, and, as 

 it was too far to the next habitation I decided to camp 

 the night there. One of the three auls was prepared by the 

 owners for me, and another for the servants, shelters of which 

 we were all verj^ glad to take advantage, in view of the wind 

 and snow without. Mine was quite a small one, constructed 

 of the usual felt, but long since discoloured to a deep black from 

 constant use and the effects of fire and smoke on its erstwhile 

 white surface. The interior was hung with ancient and 

 gaudy trappings, whilst in one corner rested bowls and platters 

 of wood, from which the occupants eat their frugal meals. A 

 box hewn out of a tree-trunk and a low table on legs some eight 

 inches in height, modelled in primitive fashion, completed the 

 furniture of this dwelling on the Mongolian uplands. Here was 

 an illustration of the simple life, which, contrasted with that of 

 the Western and civilised world, stood out as an object lesson 

 that could not fail to impress the traveller. I watched some of 

 the Mongols dining that night — thrusting chunks of meat and 

 legs of mutton into the camel-dung fire, and anon turning them 



364 



