Across the Roof of the World. 



As it was a long way to Chim, where lived the cliief of the 

 Kazaks inliabiting this jxirt of Mongolia, I marclied before 

 8 o'clock through a narrow and stony valley, crossing and re- 

 crossing the frozen stream several times. Thence I continued 

 on over a broad snow-covered plateau, a mighty wilderness, ice- 

 bound and locked in the grip of a hard and relentless winter. 

 Beyond this plateau, I descended into sheltered valleys, or more 

 correctly rounded hollows in the hills, where dwelt a few nomads 

 who seemed astonished beyond measure at our appearance. 



The auls occupied secluded nooks in these bare and desolate 

 valleys, and with their flocks the nomads would remain until the 

 first signs of spring enabled them to move to the higher ground 

 and fresh pastures. Past these auls I entered once more 

 on to another stretch of plateau, from which a view of the 

 surrounding country was obtainable. 



To the north, across the Black Irtish Valley, I obtained my 

 first glimpse of the Great Altai, an imposing chain of snow-capped 

 mountains, which form one of the principal ranges of Asia. 



Descending from this plateau I reached an undulating plain 

 stretching away ten miles to east, west and north. Gum, the 

 home of the Kazak chief, was on its eastern confines, and towards 

 this haven I marched till dark. On arriving there, I found 

 a settlement comprising a log hut with four rooms — the residence 

 of the head-man — and a few auls wherein lived his attendants. 

 The chief received me hospitably and placed one of the largest 

 rooms in his hut at my disposal, in return for which I gave him 

 a shawl as a present for his wife on departing next morning. 

 My quarters were plentifully bespread with rugs and felt numdahs, 

 and there was also a stove with an ample quantity of scrub, 

 similar to the " burtsa " one finds on the Pamirs. At one end was 

 a raised dais constructed of mud, to serve as a sleeping place, 

 and in the walls were driven huge pegs on which were hung 

 clothes and various articles of a household nature. The chief 

 presented me with a " dasturkhan " of dried fruits and Russian 

 made sweets, of which we partook in company, the while he 



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