Across the Roof of the World. 



hands, though there are also a number of Sart merchants engaged 

 in business in a small way. The Altai Mountains to the north 

 of the town arc crossed by a pass leading down on to the 

 northern slopes, and east to Kobdo, whicli can be reached by 

 this route in eight days from Shara Sumbe. The pass in question 

 is, however, not an easy one, and is only open for a few montlis in 

 the year, the alternative route lying along the southern side of 

 the range through the Black Irtish Valley and over the eastern 

 shoulder of the Altai into Kobdo, a journey involving a march 

 of from i6 to 20 days. 



On December 24th I called on the Ching Sai, or Governor 

 of the Altai. He did not seem to enjoy being in this distant 

 outpost of Empire, and with a sigh of regret remarked that it 

 was a long way from anywhere, adding that though he had ordered 

 some films for a camera from Pekin the year before, they had 

 not yet arrived. He held up his hands in horror at the idea 

 of my attempting to cross the Altai at this season of the 3'ear, 

 and said I should certainly die in the attempt, a not very 

 comforting assurance. 



At 3 o'clock he returned my call, arriving in a small tarantass, 

 which Haji Ismail Bai had presented to him two years before. 

 His visit lasted nearly two hours, he being very talkative and 

 seemingly pleased to have an opportunity of meeting an English- 

 man. He imparted much information on Mongolia and the 

 Altai, and Chinese intentions with regard thereto, at intervals 

 bewaihng his hard lot in being stationed here. No doubt so 

 small a place would afford little scope for his activities, 

 but he looked forward to the time when it would develop into a 

 busy centre, bringing with it an era of prosperity and an increased 

 exchequer. He was much interested in my rifles and shot gun, 

 asking several questions, also sending for his own batter}', which 

 comprised a rifle and gun, both of German make, for my in- 

 spection. We then discussed the Boxer troubles of 1900, in 

 which he took part, showing me a bayonet wound he had received 

 in the forehead from one of the rebels during the fighting before 



376 



