Across the Roof of the World. 



matters improved and his face gradually resumed its normal and 

 erstwhile plump appearance. 



This part of the Black Irtish valley through which we were 

 now passing was a good grass country, though now, of course, 

 covered with snow, with patches of jungle here and there, 

 amongst which were to be seen groups of Kazak auls. These 

 people would come out to meet me, intently watching my every 

 movement and examining with great eagerness the camp furniture 

 and other articles, as they were placed in any of the auls for the 

 night. Such things were entirely foreign to them and savoured, 

 ^I suppose, of the miraculous. 



I halted that night at a group of Kazak auls where was 

 a log hut, the dwelling of a Zung, or head man. The chief Kazak 

 of the district, a Khurdia, or one who has authority over i,ooo 

 auls, came to see me soon after arrival, a fine looking man about 

 50 years of age, with high cheekbones and an ample black 

 beard. His cap of fox-skin reached down over the ears and 

 nape of the neck, and was fastened under the chin by richly 

 embroidered ribands. His dress comprised the usual " khalat," 

 or silk robe, lined with cotton wool, over which was worn a 

 heavy fur coat having an ample collar, and secured at the 

 waist by a girdle of beautiful workmanship. Dark cloth 

 pyjamas, lined with wool, and stuck into leather boots reaching 

 to the knees completed his costume. The sleeves of the coat 

 are made very long so that they come down over the hands and 

 thus take the place of gloves. 



The Khurdia told me that formerly the country round was very 

 lawless, but since the Russians had exerted greater authority 

 along the frontier hne raids were less frequent and bands of 

 robbers had now little scope for their activities. In the district 

 I was then passing through were some 250 auls, and a large 

 number of sheep, horses and cattle. 



On the 6th I resumed the march to the Siberian frontier in 

 a gale of wind, which sent the snow along in clouds and the 

 thermometer down to many degrees below zero. The country 



392 



