Across the Roof of the World. 



ceased altogether. It was unpleasant as long as it lasted, while 

 the prospects of another disaster and further cases of frost bite 

 amongst the caravan were not agreeable to contemplate. All 

 were, however, well clothed and provided with ample furs, gloves 

 and scarves, and thus able to resist the fury of the storm which, 

 though not so bad as that experienced on December 28th, was 

 still a formidable specimen of the dreaded " buran," 



I reached a Kazak camp of 20 auls at 8 o'clock, after a 

 forced march of fully 30 miles, necessitated by the fact of there 

 being no intermediate stage. I was always glad to reach the 

 shelter of these auls as the pain of travelling and the terrific 

 bumping over stones, hillocks, and numberless other obstacles 

 was just about the limit of human endurance. 



There were at least 100 Kazaks at this camp, the auls 

 being surrounded with walls of grass and bullrush palisades to 

 protect them from the force of the wind which blows with great 

 violence over these bleak and arid steppes. 



I have before described the dwellings of the nomads, and 

 the aul has ere now become familiar to the reader. The furniture 

 and appointments of these movable homes are of the simplest 

 description. Mine that night resembled a butcher's shop, for 

 in the central part over the fireplace hung many joints of meat 

 being smoked for future use ; it was therefore a matter of 

 much difficulty moving about without risk of capsizing sundry 

 sirloins and shoulders, not, indeed, of mutton but horse, for the 

 dweller of the steppes finds horseflesh a great delicacy, and it 

 ever forms a prominent feature of the bill of fare. Around the 

 sides were several boxes of Russian make, ornamented with gaudy 

 tinsel work and layers of brass, a form of embellishment dear 

 to the nomad's heart. Within these boxes were pieces of silk and 

 cloth, constituting the finery of the ladies of the family and for 

 wear on state occasions, such as a wedding or some equally 

 important event. 



Prominent in the aul was the leathern "kumis" bottle, that 

 doubtful beverage of which an account has already been given. 



394 



