Across the Roof of the World. 



At break of dawn I despatched Rasul in search of a fresh 

 tarantass, or a sledge, to take me into Zaisan, 56 versts distant. 

 He returned towards 8 o'clock accompanied by two Siberians, 

 one being the official appointed to supervise the skin trade and 

 examine hides entering Russian territory, there being a consider- 

 able business in skins amongst tlie Kazaks, who dispose of them 

 in large numbers to Russian traders. 



These men were very respectful, and when I enquired if they 

 could supply sledges for the journey to Zaisan, replied in the 

 affirmative, but stated the cost would be 50 roubles for two sledges. 

 This I knew to bean outrageous swindle, and promptly told them 

 so, and they finally reduced their demands to 30 roubles, nearly 

 four times the just amount, though as I felt too ill to indulge in 

 further remonstrance with them, and was naturally anxious to 

 reach Zaisan without further delay I agreed for this sum. The 

 sledgeswereduly brought round, and at 10 o'clock, having loaded 

 up and dressed everyone's wounds, I set forth, crossing the 

 frontier into Siberia, a few hundred yards further down. 



I had been steadily discarding various articles since leaving 

 Shara Sumbe, having no further use for them, and now disposed 

 of some more, including a stove of good iron work I had brought 

 from Chuguchak. I presented this to the Kazak owner of the 

 log hut, much to his dehght, and when I left he was setting it 

 up, giving to this Black Hole on the Mongolian Steppes quite 

 an air of importance. 



Just beyond the frontier, here determined by a little river, 

 the northern banks of which are in Chinese territory and the 

 southern within Russian jurisdiction, was a neatly built log hut 

 covered with white plaster, the residence of the official detailed 

 to watch the skin import trade and from whom I had hired the 

 sledges. When I passed in my sledge he came out with his 

 family and invited me to partake of a cold collation, a repast 

 where vodka predominated. Having swindled me heavily over 

 the hire of the sledges, I suppose he thought something ought 

 to be done to bring his rapacity less prominently into light, 



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