Across the Roof of the World. 



exceptional cases and when one is furnished with powerful 

 credentials. 



It is usually limited to couriers and others proceeding on 

 business of importance that will brook no delay. Personally, 

 the kindness and influence of the British Ambassador at St. 

 Petersburg procured for me every attention at the hands of the 

 Russian authorities en route, and enabled me to travel at a speed 

 which would not have been possible under other circumstances. 



Before lea\'ing Zaisan I had given away the greater part of 

 my camp kit, remaining stores and sundry other articles, having 

 now no further need for them. 



I had two sledges, one for myself and Khatimski, the other 

 for Giyani and the kit. These sledges had been ordered from 

 the postal authorities, and everything being ready we started on 

 the long drive to the railway. The drivers were Kirghiz and 

 the horses fresh and high spirited, so we glided swiftly along, 

 doing the first stage of 17 versts in a httle over two hours. Here 

 horses and sledges were changed and we sped on through the 

 night and all the following day, halting only to change at every 

 stage. Once or twice at the post-houses we indulged in a glass of 

 tea and some ready cooked food, which I carried. 



The cold was simply appalling, while during the night 

 of the 7th the thermometer on the outside of the sledge sank to 

 46 degrees below zero. 



At half-past seven on the morning of the 8th we arrived at 

 one of the post-houses, literally stiff with the cold, despite 

 innumerable fur coats, felt boots, felt socks, woollen " rizais," 

 and blankets. There had been a strong wind blowing through 

 the night and this had added to our difficulties in keeping the 

 merest semblance of warmth. 



On arriving at the post-house above alluded to I felt my 

 left foot numbed and lifeless, and when I pulled off the felt 

 boots and stockings, it was quite white and insensible to 

 several digs I gave it with Khatimski's knife. The starosta, 



or man in charge of the post station, then came in and rubbed 



406 



