Across the Roof of the World. 



strong brew of tea, and a little poured into the glasses is diluted 

 with hot water from the samov^ar. The tea is drunk from glasses, 

 witliout milk, and is usually flavoured with a slice of lemon. 



The samovar is a popular institution in Russia, constantly in 

 evidence, amongst rich and poor alike, so that although one can 

 obtain little else in the post-houses along the line of route, this 

 is ever to hand. Food in any shape is rarely obtainable, as 

 travellers are expected to carry their own, though occasionally 

 a few eggs are obtainable and a supply of the black bread, which 

 forms the staple diet of the Siberian peasant. 



The post-houses are built of logs, the interstices being filled 

 with mud and plaster. The interior is usually provided with 

 benches, doing duty as beds, while a table, and one or two chairs, 

 complete the furniture. In a corner is the brick stove, built into 

 the wall, by which the apartment is heated. The front and edges 

 of doors are heavily coated with felt to keep out the draught, 

 and when one enters the rush of cold air from without mingling 

 with the warmer air within creates a volume of dense mist, 

 resembling that encountered on the mountain side. All windows 

 are double and sealed in between and round the edges with paper 

 and cotton wool, the result being the atmosphere is often so stale 

 and heavy that one could almost cut it with a knife. Of washing 

 arrangements there are none, for the Siberian does not regard the 

 matter of ablutions in the same light as we do, and manages 

 with quite a minimum amount of soap and water. 



The men in charge of the post stations are usually moujiks, 

 with shaggy beards, sheep-skin coats and caps, and wearing an 

 air of savagery in keeping with their attire. The women one 

 sees are distinctly plain and dull, having enormous waists and 

 unduly large feet, which, if it does not add to their personal 

 charm, enables them to keep a good hold on the country. 



All Russians are religious, or at any rate profess to be, and 

 no room is complete without the famihar " ikon," or religious 

 picture, standing on a bracket in one corner. In front of it is 

 suspended a lamp which is supposed to burn without intermis- 



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