202 AFTER WILD SHEEP IN THE ALTAI 



alkali steppe, whilst the latter was concealed by 

 numerous clumps of trees and bushes growing along 

 its banks on either side. In the middle of the plain 

 stood a couple of Kirghiz yourts, in which lived 

 a tradesman who was on his annual summer tour, 

 gathering marmot skins from the natives. We de- 

 cided to pitch camp by the side of these yourts, 

 and cross the Tchagan-Kol on the morrow. Some 

 of our packs came in very late, and it was close 

 upon 7 p.m. when we finally settled down. Next 

 morning as I came out of my tent at 5 a.m., after 

 a restless night, our dcmitcha let me understand 

 through Nicholas, the Russian interpreter, that the 

 men flatly declined to go any further. He said that 

 their ponies had been mercilessly overworked, that 

 their backs were sore, that the few sheep, the only 

 remnants of former prosperity, had been devoured 

 by wolves during the night, and that the river was 

 altogether unfordable. This was indeed a piece of 

 rebellion. Littledale and I would hear nothing of 

 it. We promised them a short march that day, and 

 said that all those difficulties would be easily over- 

 come by us, who were "mighty white chiefs," and 

 that no power could stop us. The dcmitcha then 

 confided to us that the instigator of the whole move- 

 ment was one of the Kalmuks who had deserted from 



