The Small Fruit Garden. 323 



XXII.)- The secret of success is never to let a weed start or a 

 crust form. It is a pleasure to care for them if weeds never get 

 the start of you. It is fun to work clean soil. The hoe should 

 never be needed, just the frequent stirring or raking of surface so 

 no weed can grow. It is cheaper and pleasanter to do this three 

 times than hoe once. The way I do is to go through the straw- 

 berries first after a shower, before beginning in the field. It takes 

 but a short time and we always do it. Then there is no neglect, 

 and we never miss the time. We never work deeply around the 

 plants; just stir the surface, say an inch deep, and not right close 

 to the plant, except with great care not to disturb the roots. We 

 set out here about the first of May. Along about the first of July, 

 when there comes a wet growing time, so they will start thriftily, 

 we stop cutting runners and let them grow. Eight weeks of 

 thorough tillage should get weed seed pretty well sprouted and 

 used up. We have little trouble with weeds growing among the 

 plants after this. We continue to cultivate and hook over ground 

 for a time, and then as the runners occupy the ground use hook 

 only to stir what is not covered. 



Along about the middle of September, stretch lines through 

 and cut out paths twenty inches wide, hoeing up all plants that 

 are growing in paths. This leaves beds or rows twenty-eight 

 inches wide. It is well to do a little spreading of runners or 

 training during the season so they will cover all the ground. We 

 go through once or twice and turn them some. And you need to 

 prevent their running across from row to row or you will have va- 

 rieties mixed. It is better not to have plants too thick in the rows. 

 A plant, to do its best and produce the finest fruit, should stand 

 at least six or eight inches from any other, all around. For very 

 best results thin down to this by cutting out plants (weakest 

 when you can) with a sharp trowel about October ist. You will 

 get as many berries, perhaps, without this trouble, but not as choice. 

 Don't bother to try hills or narrow rows. I have tried all ways. 

 This is best for a farmer. You can get the most bushels with least 

 labor and with the most certainty. As soon as the growth stops 

 and ground begins to freeze in earnest (about November i5th, 

 usually, here) mulch the strawberries. If land is rich enough, 

 put on clean wheat straw or marsh hay. I put straw all over 

 paths, vines and all, just thick enough so I cannot see any leaves 

 through it. Spread it evenly. If you think your soil not quite 

 rich enough, or want to increase your chances for many and fine 

 berries on rich ground, mulch with manure. Between the rows 

 it may be rotten ; over plants strawy manure would be better. 

 There is little danger of getting it on thick enough to do any 

 harm after ground is frozen. But spread it finely, notin bunches. 

 In the spring rake a little of the straw off of rows into the paths 

 on a wet day and tread down just enough off so the plants can 

 get up through, no more. The more straw around on surface 



