BANDA ORIENTAL. 183 



ed himself on, and was firmly seated, bridle in 

 hand, before the horse gained the bank. A naked 

 man on a naked horse is a fine spectacle ; I had no 

 idea how well the two animals suited each other. 

 The tail of a horse is a very useful appendage ; I 

 have passed a river in a boat with four people in 

 it, which was femed across in the same way as the 

 Gaucho. If a man and horse have to cross a broad 

 river, the best plan is for the man to catch hold of 

 the pommel or mane, and help himself with the 

 other arm. 



We slept and stayed the following day at the 

 post of Cufre. In the evening the postman or let- 

 ter-carrier an-ived. He was a day after his time, 

 owing to the Rio Rozario being flooded. It would 

 not, however, be of much consequence ; for, al- 

 though he had passed through some of the princi- 

 pal towns in Banda Oriental, his luggage consisted 

 of two letters ! The view from the house was pleas- 

 ing; an undulating green surface, with distant 

 glimpses of the Plata. I find that I look at this 

 province with very different eyes from what I did 

 upon my first amval. I recollect I then thought it 

 singularly level ; but now, after galloping over the 

 Pampas, my only surprise is, what could have in- 

 duced me ever to have called it level. The coun- 

 try is a series of undulations, in themselves perhaps 

 not absolutely gi-eat, but, as compared to the plains 

 of St. Fe, real mountains. From these inequalities 

 there is an abundance of small rivulets, and the turf 

 is green and luxuriant. 



November 11th. — We crossed the Rozario, which 

 was deep and rapid, and passing the village of 

 Colla, arrived at midday at Colonia del Sacra- 

 miento. The distance is twenty leagues, through 

 a country covered with fine grass, but poorly stock- 

 ed with cattle or inhabitants. I was invited to 



