302 TIERRA DEL FUEGO. 



was the wood, that it was necessary to have con- 

 stant recourse to the compass ; for every landmark, 

 though in a mountainous country, was completely 

 shut out. In the deep ravines, the death-like scene 

 of desolation exceeded all description; outside it 

 was blowing a gale, but in these hollows not even 

 a breath of wind stiiTed the leaves of the tallest 

 trees. So gloomy, cold, and wet was every part, 

 that not even the fungi, mosses, or ferns could 

 flourish. In the valleys it was scarcely possible to 

 crawl along, they were so completely bamcaded 

 by great mouldering trunks, which had fallen down 

 in every direction. When passing over these nat- 

 ural bridges, one's course was often arrested by 

 sinking knee deep into the rotten wood ; at other 

 times, when attempting to lean against a firm tree, 

 one was staitled by finding a mass of decayed mat- 

 ter ready to fall at the slightest touch. We at last 

 found ourselves among the stunted trees, and then 

 soon reached the bare ridge, which conducted us 

 to the summit. Here was a view characteristic of 

 Tierra del Fuego ; iiTegular chains of hills, mottled 

 with patches of snow, deep yellowish-green valleys, 

 and arms of the sea intersecting the land in many 

 directions. The strong wind was piercingly cold, 

 and the atmosphere rather hazy, so that we did 

 not stay long on the top of the mountain. Our 

 descent was not quite so laborious as our ascent, 

 for the weight of the body forced a passage, and 

 all the slips and falls were in the right direction. 



I have already mentioned the sombre and dull 

 character of the evergi'een forests,* in which two 



* Captain Fitz Roy informs me that in April (our October) the 

 leaves of those trees which grow near the base of the mountains 

 change colour, l)ut not those on the more elevated parts. I remem- 

 ber having read some observations, showing that in England the 

 leaves fall earlier in a warm and fine autumn, than in a late and 



