BRO 



B R O 



but should then be wrought over, introducing 

 about an eighth part of ne.v tau by trenching it 

 in. But though the plants will in general have 

 made good roots by this period, they do not in 

 common stand in need of being fresh potted ; 

 such only as are in any degree matted in the 

 roots, being put into other pots of the next 

 size to those in which they are growing. The 

 matted part being simply taken olf, they should 

 be replaced with the balls as entire as pos- 

 sible. 



They are then to be plunged in the beds, as in 

 the former case, quite up to the brims of the 

 pots, and should remain till the beginning of 

 March; at which period the beds should be 

 again wrought aver as directed above, and the 

 plants have the mould wholly shaken from their 

 roots; after which they should be replaced in the 

 same pots with fresh mould, and rcplunged in 

 the beds. In this case the roots, being fresh, 

 should not be disturbed; the parts that are de- 

 cayed in the stumps or other places only being- 

 removed. 



As the heat of the beds without the aid of 

 fire will not be Mifficient during these period-, for 

 the healthy growth of the plants, it will be re- 

 quisite to have recourse to that of the artificial 

 kind. This should be applied about the begin- 

 ning of October, or the following month, ac- 

 cording to the state of the season. In the ap- 

 plication of this heat, great care should be had 

 to keep it so moderate as not to force the plants 

 forward loo much, and render them in danger 

 of fruiting unseasonably, while it is sufficient 

 for their perfect growth. The former is shown 

 by their drawing up with long leaves and white 

 hearts, and the latter by the want of the proper 

 healthy aspect. To accomplish this in the most 

 certain manner, Mr. Nieol recommends working 

 the stoves so as to keep the thermometer as 

 near as possible to Co", at seven or eight o'clock 

 in the morning, and nine at night, until about 

 the first of March, and then to increase it gra- 

 dually to 70" ; at which it should be maintained 

 so long as artificial heat maybe required. 



When tire weather is vcr\ severe it is likewise 

 necessary to cover and defend the glasses in the 

 night-time, a.' well as occasionally m the day, 

 with canvass for the purpose, or cloths fixed 

 with rollers and pulleys, or large garden mats. 



At the above period the plants usually begin 

 to grow in a vigorous and rapid manner, and 

 require potting again about the first or middle 

 of May ; at which time the bed should be 

 stirred up to about half its depth, and, if neces- 

 sary, a very little new tan worked in. The 

 plants should now be put into pots of about six 

 inches in diameter on the inside at the tops on a 



medium, according to their sizes, with the balls 

 entire; and if any of them are matted, that 

 part should be displaced ; plunging them to 

 the brim, at the distance of about fifteen inches 

 from centre to centre of the plants in the largest 

 kinds, and a foot in the smaller ones, giving a 

 slight watering at the time. 



Another potting becomes necessary about the 

 beginning of August; and where there are three 

 compartments, the plants should now be re- 

 moved into the succession-house, the bark-bed 

 being worked to the bottom. The plants must 

 be put into pots of eight inches diameter, 

 plunging; them to the brims at the distance of 

 sixteen niches on a medium, settling them with 

 a gentle watering. 



At these periods a more free admission of 

 fresh air becomes necessary, especially when the 

 weather is mild and favourable. 



Where succession-stoves are employed in the 

 culture of these plants, they are capable of being 

 much more conveniently managed in their growth 

 the second year. 



Culture in flu- Succession- Stoves or Pits. — In 

 the second year's growth of these plants, it will 

 be necessary, towards the middle of November, 

 to work the bark-beds over to last during the 

 winter, but the plants need not be shifted ; the 

 decayed leaves about their bottoms being only 

 twisted on", and a little fresh mould laid on the 

 surface of the pots, when it may be requisite, 

 rcplunging them to the brims as before. 

 Some advise the leaves of the plants to be tied 

 up while they are potting or removing, in order 

 to keep them from being bruised; but Mr. Nicol 

 disapproves of the practice, as he finds they are 

 generally much more bruised in the tying than 

 when left loose. His method is, to have a 

 person standing opposite him in the time of 

 potting, which is performed on a stage about a 

 yard high, whose business is to hold up the 

 leaves in a loose though regular manner be- 

 tween the arms, and prepare and hand the pots, 

 while another hands and sets aside the plants. 

 In this manner he has often been able to shift 

 a hundred one-year old plants in two hours. 

 In conveying the plants through the doors of 

 the stoves, the person should proceed with the 

 back foremost, by which the leaves are saved 

 from injury, as the pot goes first, and the leaves 

 are drawn backwards after it. 



About the beginning of March, the plants 

 again require shitting, and the bark-beds should 

 then be trenched as before. The plants at this 

 time must be shaken out, and replaced in the 

 same pots, in entire new mould, cutting olf any 

 decayed roots, or the ends of the stumps, and, 

 twisting off a few of the bottom leaves, 8cc. re> 

 2 C 2 



