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are to remain. Tn the latter case, they should 

 be cut or beaded down to six or eight inches in 

 the early spring, to induce lateral shoots to be 

 thrown out near the ground. 



The layers should he made from the well 

 ripened woody shoots of the bearing trees, and be 

 laid down in the autumn, or early in the spring, 

 being, protected from frost during the winter 

 by tan or some sort of strawy material. When 

 the plants are sufficiently rooted, as in the follow- 

 ing autumn, they should be taken off and plant- 

 ed out in the places where they are to remain, 

 as they do not bear transplanting well, being 

 covered at the roots with dung, tan, or litter during 

 the- winter season.' 



The cuttings of the well ripened woody shoots 

 ■of the former year, without being shortened, 

 may be planted in the beginning of the autumn 

 in beds of loamy earth in a warm sheltered situa- 

 tion, to the depth of eight or ten inches, pro- 

 tecting them well during the winter with tanner's 

 bark and straw, or some other similar material, 

 the latter being removed as the spring advances. 

 When they have stricken good root in the follow- 

 ing autumn, they should be taken up and planted 

 where they are to grow. 



These trees are mostly cultivated as standards 

 in warm climates, but in this in general 

 against walls or as espaliers; and only sometimes 

 as standards. 



The sorts usually cultivated against walls, 

 arc those of the blue and white kinds, but 

 several of the others succeed well in this ma- 

 nagement. 



But for espalier? and as standards, the first, 

 second, third, ninth, and tenth varieties are 

 probably the most proper. 



In their culture as wall-trees, they should al- 

 ways be placed in sunny situations for the pur- 

 pose of the fruit being the most effectually ri- 

 pened, as in that of a full southern exposure, 

 but an east or west aspect will answer very well 

 when that cannot be had. 



In planting them out, where the walls are of 

 considerable "height, fifteen or eighteen ftct di- 

 Itant mav be sufficient; but in low walls twenty 

 or mure is not too much space. Mr. Forsyth 

 advises from twenty to twenty-four feet as the 

 most suitable distance for planting these trees. 

 • Where the trees are planted against fire- walls, 

 they should not be kept too close, be drawn by 

 glasses, or have the heat too great, but have at ail 

 times, when the weather is favourable, a good 

 share of free air admitted j and if the trees are 

 voting, cart should bt taken that their roots ate not 

 extended beyond the reach of the covering; they 

 must be frequently watered when they begin to 

 show fruit, otherwise it will drop oft ; but old 



trees, whose roots are extended to a great di- 

 stance, only require to have their branches now 

 and then sprinkled over with water. Where 

 these trees are properly managed, the first crop 

 of fruit is greater than upon those which are 

 exposed to the- open air, and ripens six weeks 

 or Iwo months earlier, and a plentiful second 

 crop may also be obtained, winch ripens early 

 in September, and sometimes in August ; but 

 the fires should not be used to these trees till- the 

 beginning of February ; as, when they are forced 

 too early, the weather is frequently too cold to 

 admit a sufficient quantity of fresh air to set the 

 fruit ; but the covers should be put over the trees 

 a month before, to prevent the shoots from be- 

 ing injured by the frost. 



The management of the trees in the common 

 method, after they have been headed down or 

 shortened in the manner mentioned above, 

 whether they be on walls or espaliers, is that of 

 training them horizontally, so as to preserve the 

 branches m an equal and regular manner on each 

 side, at the distance of from six to eight inches 

 from each other, and for the most pail keeping 

 their full length without any shortening, that as 

 large a proportion of young or bearing wood as 

 possible may be preserved. Some, however, 

 advise their not being laid in so close, considering 

 a foot or eighteen inches as little enough room". 



In the pruning of these trees, Mr. Forsyth 

 advises, that it should never he done in the au- 

 tumn or winter, but in the early spring months. 

 The best time be conceives to be about the lat- 

 ter end of April or beginning of the following 

 month, as by this period it may be ascertained 

 what branches have been destroyed by the seve- 

 rity of the winter. And as the ends of those 

 branches, the wood of which has not ripened 

 well in the autumn, will be most injured, they 

 should be cut into the sound wood, as near to 

 an eye or bud as possible. 



In cases where the branches have been per- 

 mitted to run up so as to leave the bottom in a 

 naked state, every other branch is advised to be 

 cut out as near to the ground as it can be done, by 

 which the w alls or espaliers w ill be provided with 

 good young wood ; care being taken to stop the 

 ends of the shoots in summer, as about the begin- 

 ning of June, in order to induce side-shoots to 

 be thrown out for fruiting the following suunner ; 

 by which time plenty of fine wood w ill be provid- 

 ed, ami then the remainder of the old branches 

 may be cut out as before, priming their young. 

 shoots as in the preceding case, constantly pinch- 

 ing oft' the inds of all the strongest shooi-j at the 

 top hud, except such as are leading ones. 



In the spring prumngs, as the fruit is pro- 

 duced near the tops, the bearing thous should 



